ご当地
Ramen Styles
A traveller's map of Japan's regional ramen
From clear salt broths in Hokkaido to pork-and-bonito soba in Okinawa, a north-to-south tour of Japan's gotōchi ramen, one city and one bowl at a time.
5 min read
味
Ramen Styles
Shoyu, shio, miso, tonkotsu: a field guide to ramen's four big flavours
Three of ramen's big four name the seasoning at the bottom of the bowl, and one names the stock. Learn the difference and every menu gets easier to read.
4 min read
旭川
Ramen Styles
Asahikawa shoyu ramen: a bowl with its own lid of lard
In one of Japan's coldest cities, ramen comes with a double soup of meat and seafood, firm noodles and a glossy layer of lard that keeps every sip hot.
4 min read
豚骨
Ramen Styles
Hakata tonkotsu: pork bones, thin noodles and the art of the refill
Milky pork-bone broth, noodles that cook in seconds and a call for kaedama. How Fukuoka's most famous bowl works, and how to order it like a regular.
4 min read
函館
Ramen Styles
Hakodate shio ramen: clear soup from an old harbour
In Hokkaido's historic port city, ramen comes pale, clear and seasoned with salt, a light counterpoint to Sapporo's miso and Asahikawa's shoyu.
4 min read
家系
Ramen Styles
Iekei: Yokohama's family of rich, made-to-order ramen
Tonkotsu-shoyu, golden chicken oil, thick noodles and sheets of nori. Iekei began at one Yokohama shop in 1974 and grew a family tree across Japan.
3 min read
喜多方
Ramen Styles
Kitakata: the town that eats ramen for breakfast
In a Fukushima town of old storehouses, ramen is a morning habit. Meet asa-ra, a clear soy bowl and some of the most slurpable noodles in Japan.
3 min read
熊本
Ramen Styles
Kumamoto ramen: tonkotsu with a toasted-garlic heart
Kyushu pork-bone ramen, softened with chicken and crowned with fried garlic chips and mayu, an inky black garlic oil. Milder than Hakata, louder on garlic.
4 min read
長崎
Ramen Styles
Nagasaki champon: a port city's everything-in-one bowl
Pork, seafood and vegetables simmered with thick noodles in a cloudy broth. Nagasaki's champon is the generous dish of a city shaped by centuries of trade.
4 min read
沖縄
Ramen Styles
Okinawa soba: the island noodle with no buckwheat
Thick wheat noodles, a pork-and-bonito broth and tender spare ribs. Okinawa soba is the islands' everyday bowl, and its name hides a pleasant surprise.
4 min read
尾道
Ramen Styles
Onomichi ramen: soy, small fish and a scatter of pork fat
A Seto Inland Sea port town's soy ramen, built on chicken and little fish, with flat noodles and soft flecks of pork back fat floating on top.
4 min read
二郎
Ramen Styles
Ramen Jiro: the mountain, the garlic and the call
A heap of sprouts, back fat and garlic over thick noodles, plus a ritual of called-out toppings. Inside the Tokyo bowl that grew a cult, and how to order without panic.
3 min read
味噌
Ramen Styles
Sapporo miso: the bowl built for snow
Wok-seared vegetables, a lid of lard and noodles with real bite. Sapporo's miso ramen was made for long Hokkaido winters, and every spoonful shows it.
4 min read
担々麺
Ramen Styles
Tantanmen: how a Sichuan street snack became a Japanese soup
Born as soupless dandan noodles in Sichuan, tantanmen became a creamy sesame-and-chilli soup in Japan, and now comes both ways.
4 min read
徳島
Ramen Styles
Tokushima ramen: brown, yellow, white and a raw egg on top
On Shikoku, ramen is sorted by colour, topped with sweet simmered pork belly and eaten with rice. Here's how to read Tokushima's three broths.
3 min read
中華そば
Ramen Styles
Tokyo shoyu: the clear, brown bowl where it all began
Before tonkotsu and tsukemen there was chuka soba: clear soy broth, curly noodles and a pink-swirled slice of naruto. Meet Tokyo's original ramen.
4 min read
富山
Ramen Styles
Toyama Black: the ramen that asks for rice
Inky soy broth, a storm of coarse black pepper and plenty of salt. Toyama's famous ramen is said to have been made to eat alongside a bowl of rice.
4 min read
つけ麺
Ramen Styles
Tsukemen: ramen, taken apart
Thick noodles on one side, a dense, hot dipping broth on the other. Where tsukemen came from, why it took over Tokyo, and how to finish it properly.
4 min read
和歌山
Ramen Styles
Wakayama ramen: chuka soba with sushi on the side
A rich tonkotsu-shoyu bowl, pressed mackerel sushi on the counter and an honour system for boiled eggs. Wakayama's local ramen has some delightful habits.
4 min read